Rannoch Mountaineering Club 

www.climbrannoch.co.uk

FINNIESTON - An Appreciation

With last years ‘Foot-and-Mouth’ outbreak and ban on movements in the countryside, a trip to "Finnie" was about as much outdoor climbing as we were going to get that summer. There is no ban on movements here now, indeed I’ve been caught short a few times myself and there are plenty of trees for cover.

So I say on those balmy spring and summer evenings abandon the Ibrox Church, and congregate on the real stuff.

For your trip to Crag Finnieston, park your car at the head of Glen Kelvinhaugh in Yorkhill and start your trek southwards under the railway bridge. Turn east onto the ‘Expressway.’ Here cars and lorries hurtle past, with the occasional toot-toot and swerve-screech from some bampot who thinks he knows you.

Soon the towering, monolithic sandstone walls come into view, resplendent in the sun and redolent of diesel and keech. There are panoramic views to the south of giant shimmering armadillos, Tall Ships are moored in the Clyde and the roar of trundling juggernauts and helicopters fills the air, indeed, it is a heady brew.

To fully appreciate the climbing here, it is best to wear your oldest, tattiest rockboots. I personally use a pair of "Calanques", purchased in 1982, and still going strong, sensitivity on those micro-smears is achieved through a gaping hole in both toe-caps, my delicate foot protected by double mountaineering socks.

The lengthy approach march will have sufficed as a warm-up, though some may like to ‘crank some off’ on one of the Pull-up trees. The climbing, particularly on the shorter left-hand section, is of a strenuous nature, being vertical or even slightly overhanging in places, with plenty of small edges and pockets and usually good footholds. I have been coming here for nearly 20 years and am still finding new holds, particularly after "Scratchy-the-dry-tooler" has been traversing with axes and crampons!! Desecration! I mean, how would he like it if I put chalkmarks on his beloved iced-up v.diffs!!

The crux is traversing past a ‘sticky-oot ‘ block at any of a number of levels, (add a couple of technical grades if a train passes overhead and the wall starts shuddering). As well as traversing there are a couple of ‘up-and-doonie’ bits and plenty of scope for boulder problems. Indeed, a "Phantom-boulderer" has been at work at various sites, daubing his creations with purple paint. Shocking behaviour. It would never be allowed at Dumby Rock, the Boulderers Mecca.

The longer, right-hand section, is less steep and is positively slabby in places. Note that using the metal handholds is cheating. It should be noted that this section is getting a bit overgrown. Napalm and Agent Orange called for nowadays.

Finnieston Wall, an unspoilt natural wilderness, a climbers paradise right on our doorstep. The latest of Scotlands National Parks and administrated by Scottish Heritage in the Environment (SHITE).