Rannoch Mountaineering Club 

www.climbrannoch.co.uk

Ten Munros to go and the ‘thousand yard stare’ takes a grip. Our plan was to do 9 of the feckers and leave Ben Ime to compleat at a later date and have a right good swally.

In preparation, I had purchased a pair of ‘Superfeet’ [bloody expensive by the way] insoles in an attempt to avoid blisters with my troublesome old canvas/goretex padding boots. So when myself, Chris and Iain set out for the walk over to Shenavall Bothy on Saturday 3^rd May I was confident that my feet would be in good nick for the padding week ahead. How wrong can you be!……within half an hour I knew there was trouble afoot, and by the time we reached the Bothy in the pouring rain my feet were sore and blistered.

The bothy was busy, with around 20 people staying and a few tents outside. But with a bit of brass neck and luck  we muscled into the main room with the log fire, sorted out some floor space , and milled around drinking beer and chatting. It was around 9.30pm and there had obviously been a lot of bevvy consumed and the banter was raucous to say the least. One of the females in the company remarked that she had drunk rather a lot and expected to wake up with “a big thumper”…….I felt I had to clarify the situation by pointing out that it was only blokes that woke up with “big thumpers”…….and that seemed to set the tone for the evening.

The following morning, we awoke to a brightish day but with the obvious threat of rain. I put on an extra pair of socks in an attempt to avoid worsening my blisters…..but to no avail. We waded the rivers to get on to the stalkers track leading over to Carnmore, and followed this up to the col between A’Mhaigdean and Ruadh Stac Mor. Iain and I bagged off this pair and Chris skirted round directly to Beinn Tarsuinn where we caught him up. . The weather really crapped out badly here and there was a long rain and very heavy hail storm. We continued round the remaining unbagged Fisherfield hills, and back to the Bothy extremely wet, and cold. My feet were in a truly shocking state. It had been a long [10h+] day.  However, I had some canned anaesthetic with me, and we had another great night in the Bothy. Particularly good fun were Gordon & Fiona from the Kyle Club, who were terrific company. Much credit goes to Fiona especially, for doing all 6 hills in appalling conditions, a really tough 12h day. I think she has her own ‘thousand yard stare’.

Our plan for Monday was to have an easy walk out from the Bothy…..and not a lot else. However, the state my feet were in led to it being a dreadful ordeal. We decided to walk out via the Strath na Sealga, a bit longer but with supposedly easier walking. …..Plod….OOYAH!….Plod….OOYAH!…..times fourteen thousand five hundred and forty three approximately…..I’m sure I’ll have to visit my dentist as I was gritting my teeth so much and I was nearly heaving with the pain.  Not an enjoyable experience!

 On Monday night we dossed  at the Kinlochewe Bunkhouse, and had a few beers with JD & Colin who had just arrived for their ‘Back to Basics’ Wetrock Tour 2003.

Tuesday was our big cycling day…. [many thanks to Bish BTW for the loan of a bike] …..from Attadale into Bendronaig Lodge at the foot of Lurg Mhor and Cheesecake. It’s at times like these that I realise that I am just so NOT a mountain biker….the uphill bits are desperate and you end up pushing the fecking bike and when you do get a downhill bit you get shaken and rattled to buggery.  My brakes were ‘beagling’, my arms and hands were screaming and my legs were howling. The hills, however, were surprisingly straightforward from this side. We got a soaking in some very heavy showers but there was the occasional view to make up for it. Still going to plan.

Wednesday was our rest day. We drove round to Kyle of Lochalsh and dropped Chris off at the station for the train home. He seemed to have enjoyed his few days away. Iain and I continued on to Skye and the Sligachan Inn, where we booked in to the Bunkhouse. A good pool and beer session ensued. All the while the weather had been poor but it was nothing to what was to come overnight! In all my years I have never seen weather like we had that night on Skye….it was Hurricane Hamish! Some poor unfortunate campers had their tents blown away during the night.

Thursday dawned and it was still really shite. We thought there was no way in the world we’d get on to the hill that day. So we had a Portree shopping trip instead. Iain was looking for something for his chafed hips and arse….I suggested Pampers, but he wasn’t impressed. We went to the Outdoor shop where Iain asked the rather attractive sales assistant “What have you got in the way of underwear?” .... I quickly added [before Iain got a slap]  “He means what you’re selling -  not what you’re wearing”, and indeed the lass took it well, because  we got a complimentary coffee and the obligatory small talk. By the time we got back to Slig for what we thought was sure to be another pool and beer sesh, there was just a hint of a break in the weather! We hurriedly got the gear together and Iain had a chance to try out his new anti-chafe under shorts. With the constant threat of the weather changing we really shifted, and were on the top of Am Basteir in 2h from the bunkhouse. Then up and over Sgurr nan Gillean in a bit of a hail storm which added to the excitement. We had snatched these hills from the jaws of defeat…..and it was fecking magic! On a sour note though, I went over on my ankle several times on the way down the hill. The footwear I was using were little more than trainers with no ankle support and I was paying for it.

Incredibly we had done everything in our itinerary according to plan.  Amazing when you consider the weather, but the Friday was going to be a hard last day. We had an early start to drive down to Armadale for the 9.15 ferry to Mallaig. That got us there in time for the 10.15 ferry to Inverie. We then had exactly 4 hours to do Meall Buidhe, and we felt confident enough that we could do it. We were now pretty fit, but in retrospect I think we had underestimated this hill. It’s a 21 Km round trip with 960m of ascent, and even being able to cycle the first 3km and going at what Iain called ‘panic pace’ there was just too little time to do the hill and get back for the 15.00 ferry. The weather was absolutely appalling, lashing rain and hail, gale force winds and very very cold. Oh Yes! This is May in Scotland all right! The path up the Mam Meadail was a stream and with a dodgy strapped-up ankle it was just never going to be. We got to the col at 550m then turned back, and even then only got back at 14.30 just in time for a pint before the ferry arrived.

If the Skye hills had been snatched from defeat, then Meall Buidhe was a bit of a kick in the baws… very very disappointing…...a Meall too far……an unfinished Meall…..one for the doggy bag to be finished later.

In fact I would say Friday 9^th May was in my top 3 of worst ever days on the hill….

…..In 3^rd place Meall Buidhe, Knoydart…..pishing wet freezing bollocks, so close to being the penultimate Munro, yet so fecking far to go back.

…..In 2^nd place An Sgarsoch & Carn an Fhidleir from Glen Feshie, 9 hrs in deep snow in a whiteout only to return to a bothy full of Edinburgh tossers…..shocking.

…..the worst day on the hill ever…..is reserved for those countless days [and many still to come hopefully] on the hill with JD and the Rannoch ….and the blood, sweat, tears and toil of trying to keep up with the sod.

Hell.

Marvellous.